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Zen Master J

Frustrating phases in language learning - How to focus your efforts

frustration

Language acquisition can be broken down into phases.  There may be many ways to differientiate phases, but I find stages of frustration the most revealing.   Each stage is frustrating in a different way based on patterns in language learning, and thus requires adjustment in focus.   While the entire process will always have you continuously reading, listening, writing and speaking, one aspect should take preference over others at particular times.  If you pay close attention to what is most frustrating during the process, you will be able to get a feeling of which stage you are in and your language learning will go more smoothly.

Perhaps other people have experienced language learning frustration in a different pattern, but the theme holds true - when you feel that something is frustrating, you should put your efforts into that area rather than avoiding it.

Here are the phases as I’ve experienced them.

Phase 0:  Recognition

In this stage, the language looks like scribbles on paper.  What are these scribbles?!  Are those pictures?  What does the “circle” mean?”   In this phase you know nothing about the language and probably haven’t listened to it much.  This phase will be the most exciting, and thus probably not the most overwhelming.  When everything feels new, things usually are easy and your motivation is probably still high.

I call this phase 0 because language skills are not acquired at this stage, i.e. you are not able to use the language.   You start to notice patterns to the scribbles and put sounds to those patterns.    This stage gets you from complete ignorance to being able to start formulating expression in the language, but most importantly it helps you understand exactly what it is you are going to be learning.

The focus here is to learn how to draw the characters (letters, words etc) in proper stroke order, how to speak the sounds (and later words), and to learn the rules (grammar).  After this stage, the rules of the game should be tightly understood and need only referencing later.  This is the take off point.  It should only take a few months to pass this stage, and it can be done in relative isolation, although you will need the help of a native speaker for pronunciation.

Phase 1:  A gurgled garble of noise.

You can’t understand anything.  The sentences, words, tones, and sounds all come out as a long stream of garbled mess.  In this phase you can’t tell the difference between a name and an action when a native speaker slings it at you at full speed, and probably not even at half speed.  Frustration really starts hitting you in this stage, as this is the stage where you feel like you just landed on Earth from outer space.

While obviously you still have everything left to learn, phase one is mostly about making sense of this mess of sounds and separating it out into words, phrases, and hopefully finally sentences.  Your ability to listen and understand the language will be the biggest frustration during this period as without the ability to hear clearly what others are saying, learning will feel impossible.

After a year of basics in America I thought that I was ready to start talking to people - and I was right, but in the wrong way.  I could talk to people, but when someone talked to me I couldn’t understand.  My listening ability was far behind my vocabulary, grammar, and pronunciation.  I literally couldn’t even catch when someone was telling me their name if they said it at a normal speed.  Classes were taught solely in Chinese, and while the work wasn’t particularly hard, the fact that I couldn’t understand what the teacher said gave me a daily headache.

Solution:

Listen to anything you can, and often.  Read out loud, listen to movies (as in pay particular attention to speech and try to match it with subtitles.  The focus is on listening, not watching), listen to music and podcasts, and just listen in on people speaking the language.  Divert as much focus and attention as you can to your ears - you won’t be able to continue forward in a balanced manner without them, and once you get over this hurdle, language learning will suddenly become so much more rewarding.  Once you can easily make out the words that people are saying, then you will probably find yourself a new frustration below.

Phase 2:  Me No Speak Able

Phase one was about the ears, and phase 2 is about the mouth.  At this point your ears will have finally caught up to your other abilities, but now you will find out that the basics are no longer enough.  You are now more comfortable in the basics of the language, but you will become very frustrated when trying to express any complicated ideas.  Compound sentences will get you breaking your grammar and you won’t have the vocabulary to cover even a small portion of things you might want to say.

While vocabulary is always important, the most important part of phase 2 is getting acclimated to producing the language.  This is where conversational fluency is achieved.

You do not need a lot of vocabulary to be fluent: I once met a Japanese girl that could speak her mind with probably only 50 words.  Did I enjoy listening to her speak? No.  Did I understand what she was trying to say at all times? Yes.  She spoke quickly and a lot.  Do I recommend you stopping at 50 words?  No way; but you can achieve conversational fluency with a limited vocabulary.  Don’t obsess over vocabulary.  Pace yourself and learn new words daily, but don’t make memorization the focus.

Solution:

Talk, talk, talk.  This is the only way to reach conversational fluency, and is your main focus.  Talk about anything and don’t worry about using the correct words - just get comfortable with speaking.  I don’t care if you use the same 10 words over and over again, the goal is to gain confidence and fluency in speech, not perfection.

Phase 3:  I can’t employ the good word

Phase 3 is where vocabulary suddenly becomes a focal point.  Your understanding is excellent and you are comfortable speaking, but sometimes those words that you use just aren’t the right ones.  Even in everyday speech you stick to your basic vocabulary a little too often instead of trying to stretch and use more appropriate words: while I just used “appropriate” you would have chosen “better”.

This phase is as frustrating as it is seemingly endless.   Being able to effectively use vocabulary takes a lot of exposure and a lot of practice.  I’ve seen many a good man stuck in this phase, where every other description word is “good”, every verb “want” or “get” or “do”, and every noun is replaced by “that thing”.   You’re able to describe things using very long sentences, but it would be easier to just use a more fitting word.

While the practice of using appropriate and effective vocabulary never ends, there will be a point where the majority of the words you use will be fitting, and you find that in most cases you use the same vocabulary that a native would.  This phase is sort of nativizing yourself, but only on a basic level.

Solution:

The solution is not as straight forward as it may seem: simply studying vocabulary lists will not necessarily improve your ability to use vocabulary.  You need to pay close attention to not only what other people are saying anymore, but how they are saying it.  Understanding is no longer enough.

First:  Read a lot of casual writing, especially blogs.  Most bloggers will write the way they will speak most of the time, so you will get a better feel for how people express themselves.  Just be aware that many bloggers make language mistakes in their writing.  While you are reading, be conscious of ideas that you might also want to express, and see how you might have expressed it in a different way.

Second:  Write, write, write, and have a native correct you.  Simple, but effective.

Phase 4: As deep as a puddle, as colorful as the moon

There are always new words you need to learn, and once you’ve started expressing yourself in the appropriate manner, you’ll start to realize that your vocabulary goes as deep as a puddle.  Your language skills are not colorful, and when others speak in a colorful way, you find it hard to follow. Those TV shows that you “understand” suddenly seem more confusing than before.  How is that possible?  Previously you were focused on understanding, but the laws of the universe plague us by showing that the more we know, the more we know we don’t know.

I remember the first time that I watched “奋斗” , a popular Chinese TV show:  I had my dictionary in hand and paused during scenes that I didn’t understand, but I would let a lot of vocabulary go by as long as it didn’t affect my understanding.  Just weeks ago I was watching re-runs of it on TV and felt uneasy with my comprehension.  It turns out that before I was just understanding the story, but now I’m trying to understand all of the language, including all minor details.

Phase 4 is frustrating because your vocabulary is too shallow.  You can speak well, but so can a robot.  I must admit that my Chinese is somewhere between Phase 4 and phase 4.5.

Solutions:

Conscious exposure.  Note the word conscious.  It’s important to be very focused during all of these phases, as focused learning is much more effective than otherwise.

The only real “solution” to this frustration is lots and lots of exposure.  If you are only watching TV in this language once a month, then you will find your improvement slow, and probably 5 years from now you will still have trouble understanding all of the language used in the script.  The same goes for reading.

This is where long vocabulary lists come in.  Constantly take note of new words and try to use flash cards to memorize them, but even still rote memorization isn’t as important as constant daily exposure.  Getting past this phase is no walk in the park; it will take a lot of time and a lot of effort.  The more time you spend daily immersed in difficult to understand material, the better off you will be.

Phase 4.5: Professionalize

I label this phase 4.5 because it may come just after you begin feeling frustrated with advanced language usage.  I am currently working to professionalize my Chinese, which means learning business and technical vocabulary, but from a literary perspective I still feel uneasy about my skills.  There is no way that I could write a worthy piece of literature in Chinese, for example.

I venture that most of you that have reached phase 4 are probably looking to use your language skills in your career.  It can be very frustrating at the beginning, such as learning to use correct tone and politeness in your speech, translate, interpret and so on.  All of these require different skills and will stress your language further than you ever before.

Solutions:

You can start by paying attention to the language used in business scenarios on TV shows or read a professional magazine, but ultimately the best way to professionalize your language is to get a job that requires it.  With a dictionary you should be fine if you’ve already made it this far.  With fluent intermediate language skills many companies will be willing to take you on, as they understand that it will only take a short time to make the professional leap.

Phase 5: ?

I don’t know exactly what frustrations lie ahead, but I can imagine that if I want to take my language ability further than it currently is, I will have to change strategies again.  I assume that if I do continue to the next level, it would be composition, and most likely journalist like articles, native sounding blogging, and music lyrics.

Many of you might be wondering how long each of these phases should take, but that is really hard to say.  The time depends on too many factors, but what I can say is that each new phase takes a lot longer than the phase before it.  Phase 0 may take as little as 3 weeks, but phase 1 will probably take 3 months, and phase 2 could take another 6 months to a year.  I am not the most dedicated language learner, and did not do even close to everything that I could have done, and after about 2 years I was somewhere within phase 3, but not very far.  I’ve been in China for 2 years since that point, and I am on phase 4.5 (as in phase 4 and phase 4.5 are not complete).

Phases are just for focus:

This article is just a piece of how to learn a language, so considering it alone will not mean much.  This article hopefully helps you better understand your own frustrations and lets you know that these difficulties are normal.  The more difficult and frustrating something seems, the more important it is to focus on it.

I’m curious to know if others who have become fluent in a second language have also experienced these same frustrations and in this order.  To me, these frustrations seem to come at logical times, and create a very smooth flow to the process.  I never planned to take my Chinese this deep, but the lessons I am learning now in these later stages of the learning process will surely be useful for learning future languages.

11 Reasons to Ride a Bike

bike-beijing

In the recent two months I have been experimenting with healthy living, and I found that having a bike makes healthy living a whole lot easier.  What is more surprising though is that by riding my bike daily to get places, I see many parts of life in a completely different light.  Originally I thought that buying a bike was simply buying another means of transportation, but little did I expect that I would experience a new way of living.

Below are 11 advantages of riding a bike that I have noticed in the past few weeks.

1) Get to know the city like you never did before.  When you ride a bike, you get a real feel for the size of the city that your in.  In a car or on the subway there is only a time measurement, but by bike you can feel the size not only by time but by space because you are peddling.  Of course if you walked everywhere you would get a similar feeling; however walking is too slow to be practical.  Previously, Beijing felt like an impossibly huge city.  Now, I feel it getting smaller and smaller the more I ride.  Within 2 weeks of biking, I got to know every bridge and nearly every street on the north side of the city.  I’m working on the east side now.

2) Save money. A bike might go for between $50 and $100, but you save money everyday on other things.  In Beijing, it is common to take taxis or the subway everywhere.  The subway is 2RMB each way, which makes 4 RMB per day.  You’ll earn the price of your bike back in around half a year. Any 10-15 RMB taxi (close distances) will be easy to reach by bike.  I used to take these 2-3x a week, coming in at around 100 RMB a week.  Within 2 months I will have made my money back on my purchase.  This all on top of gas savings and parking savings for if you drive often.  After that, lifetime savings are yours to keep!

3) Get exercise. Obviously any movement is exercise.  Riding a bike takes a lot more movement than pressing the gas peddle.

4) Relax. This one may seem a little counter intuitive to most people, as driving in an air-conditioned car with your choice of music seems relaxing, but it isn’t.  Riding a bike slows life down and gets you outside in nature (or closer at least) with the wind blowing and the sun shining (I assume you won’t ride on rainy days).  On top of that, exercise itself is stress relieving.  I’ve found myself a lot more relaxed in the past few weeks.

5) Slow life down. Get out of the rush of the day and slow yourself down.  Biking isn’t so slow that you can’t run errands, but it’s slow enough that you have time to think and feel rather than worry.  Small changes in life tend to have cascading effects, so by slowing down one part of your life you may find that the stress in other parts of your life just aren’t worth it.  Going from point A to point B doesn’t have to be a rush.  Take your time.

6) Freedom of Movement. Walking is too slow and a car is too cumbersome.  A bike offers you a healthy balance in the middle, where you get speed and mobility.  Going half a mile to four miles no longer becomes a hassle.  Also, in a car you are limited to places that have parking spots.  A bike has no such limit.  By foot you can’t go on the freeway - a bike can.  A car can’t go through the park - a bike can.  It feels liberating owning a bike.  And hey, if youwant to stop and walk, you can park anywhere and just start walking.   You could also ride to the subway, park, then go from there.

7) Environmentally friendly. It’s man-powered.  Save the planet a little bit of exhaust.  Hey, it might just be enough to save us all.

8) Expand your concept of “my neighborhood”.  Before I started biking often, down the street was a 15 minute walk, and thus quite a hassle.  Going to a restaurant 15 minutes down the street, and then walking 15 minutes back was something that I did on a rare occasion, even though the choices of food down there are good.  Why would I when there is a lot of decent food just downstairs?  With a bike, what I consider close-by and easy to get to now has expanded even beyond down the street.  It’s expanded a few miles out, as even what before would be a taxi ride now is an easy bike ride.  Suddenly there is a movie theater in my neighborhood :)

9) It’s Fun. Biking is really enjoyable, especially going downhill.  You can bike through the park, with your friends, or even cross country.  Biking is not just a means of transportation.

10) Become a part of your surroundings rather than just watching through a window.  Driving a car with the air-conditioning on, windows rolled up, and music blazing makes the outside world seem surreal.  You become wrapped up in your own little world, just passing through.  There is no interaction besides the occasional honk.  On a bike the surroundings are very real, and you can even interact with it.  Just the other day at a stop light I turned and talked to an old man on the bike next to me.  Try being a part of the world for a week and notice the different in your stress levels and happiness.

11) Stop the sedentary lifestyle. While a bike does have a chair, biking is not a sedentary activity.  Going from bed to dining room chair to couch to car seat to work chair and back is a recipe for disaster.  Throw in a little movement in your day.  If you work too far away to bike, then bike to the store for small purchases, or bike to restaurants, or to the cinema.  The more you move the more willing you will be to move and the further away from a sedentary dull life you will get.

This post is not about getting rid of cars, buses, or subways.  I still have to use a gas or electric powered vehicle to get across the city sometimes, as they are faster than a bike.  Rather, I’m advocating for people to not soley rely on these forms of transportation.  By riding a bike your life will change immensely, as you can see from the 11 points that I wrote above, and there are many more.

my-bike

My Bike

For those of you out there studying abroad in China, especially in Beijing, then getting a bike is a no-brainer.  Chinese cities are extremely bike-friendly: I can travel from one side of the city to the other by bike in about the same time I could by car.

For those who already ride:  What are some other advantages that you see for riding a bike?  How about disadvantages?

City of Life and Death - Nanjing! Nanjing! (Film)

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Nanjing! Nanjing! - City of life and death - was not an emotional roller coaster as most films like this tend to be.  There was no happiness.  There was no point that I felt like jumping for joy.  If you know anything about the Japanese “rape of Nanking,” then you know that it was one of the most horrific massacres in recorded history.

Yet, the film didn’t seem to dig deep enough in our emotions - perhaps due to the lack of happiness or hope or even character development (the characters are sort of just there, there is very little change in their character).  There seems to be a slight amount of hope in the opening scene, but that quickly fades and the movie continues on a very gray path as the Japanese quickly come in and demolish everything.

The implications of Nanjing! Nanjing! are extremely important.  Previous Japan-China war films were very one sided - showing only the Japanese brutality and Chinese determination and nationalism.  This film’s main character is actually a Japanese soldier with a conscious.  He is appalled by the horrors that his fellow soldiers are inflicting upon the Chinese and even upon their own (the comfort women included Japanese).

A Japanese main character with a conscious to me seems like a director trying to make a change.  There has been very little reconciliation between Japan and China since the war, and Nanjing! Nanjing! is the largest step that I have seen so far.  To me this film says “Hey Japan, we understand that not all Japanese are evil.  There were a lot of bad things that were done, sure, but it’s not impossible to reconcile as long as you show remorse.”

Wouldn’t it be amazing if a Japanese director then made a film in response to this gesture?

One thing that bothered me a little bit about the film is how watered down it feels.  I imagine that what really happened in Nanjing is a lot more horrific than anything that is shown in this film.  The rapes, the grotesque and perverted murders are all semi-covered up and watered down.  There are scenes with bodies and deaths, but none of it makes you turn your head.

My only guess as to why the director chose to take this path was that the underlying point of the film is not to show what everyone already knows - that the rape of Nanking would make any fan of “Saw” cringe - but rather to send that other message: we will not forget, but we can move on.

2 Thumbs up from me.  Go see it!

Has anyone else out there seen the movie?  What do you think?  Did you like it?

How to Learn a Language Part 3: Early Game

Chef Welcome

If you’ve followed the earlier parts to this series, one, two and three, you are ready to move on to actual learning!  Ideally, the early game should last no more than 3 months, meaning that you are ready to start sounding like an idiot in front of groups of strangers native to the language within this time frame.  Hopefully you should have the following:

Cheat Sheet
List of the 300 most common words
A Native speaker at your fingertips
Subject picked out that you enjoy and materials on it
Dictionary
Flash Cards
Audio Lessons / MP3 player
Plane ticket

This is the ideal situation.  This is the what I ask of myself when I am learning a new language; however, you COULD supplement the plane ticket for some radical shifts in your life while at home - check out this post. Just don’t expect the same results.

I realize that some people simply can’t drop everything and go to another country, however if you want to learn a language effectively you have to be willing to sacrifice.  Fluency in another language is not like learning web design or how to build a house - it takes completely different methodology.  It must become your whole life, and yet none of your life at the same time.  You can’t just set out a block of time to learn everyday like you can with other things.  Language needs to be embedded in everything.

The Breakdown:

Intensity + Effectiveness + Fun

Intensity:

Language must become a part of everything in your life; this way your brain will make the correct connections.  If you learn language for one hour a day at a certain time, your brain will connect the language with that time of day and will be more receptive to the language at that time, and less so at other times.

Language cannot be compartmentalized into a time block, nor can it be confined to any single method (audio, CD, book, etc).  The goal is for you to be able to use the language at all times, even while thinking and dreaming.  When learning we have to have this goal in mind.

This IS possible while still at home.

Your mind must be continuously brought back to the language.   When you are sleeping, walking, running, watching TV, showering, playing video games, blogging, hanging out with friends, or even working out at the gym, the language must be present.   You can recite words and phrases you learned; simple thought processes can be replaced by the language, such as “what am I going to eat” or “what will I do today” as soon as you have the ability to say these.  You should count in the language while working out. This is intensity.

Decrease the use of your mother tongue while increasing the use of your target language everyday at all times.

When I was learning Chinese and still State-side, I would count or sing random things in Chinese while showering.  When running I would use Chinese when thinking the directions in my head: “turn left.  turn right.  A little longer.”  I would respond to friends’ questions in Chinese even if they didn’t understand (jokingly of course, and not all the time: you get the point).  I immersed myself in the language and it paid off quickly.

While the above is true, it is important to put in small blocks of time for certain language learning activities, but I do not see them as solely language learning, but also as enjoyable activities that you would otherwise do in English.   These are mentioned in the below section.  Try to take at least hour a day - obviously the more the better - to do the following.

Effectiveness:

This is where I messed up with Chinese before.  You will shine here.  This is what you need to do in the early stages:

1) Abuse your list of the most frequently used words:  You should have these down on flashcards and be flipping through them constantly throughout the day.  Take 10-15 words with you a day and put them in your pocket.  After work or other classes, test yourself and do it often.

2) Pound out the grammar: Re-write your cheat sheet 50x:  Your cheat sheet contains the keys to the grammar of the language.  By the end of 2 months you should be able to re-write your cheat sheet perfectly from memory.  Use different nouns / verbs / objects / indirect objects every 10 times.

3) Start reading after your 10th re-write (10-20 days in): Go directly to materials on the subject that you found interesting.  If it was video games, start reading articles on games RIGHT NOW.  There is no rule stating that you have to learn vocabulary linearly.  After you’re pretty much gotten your cheat sheet memorized, reading is only a matter of looking through the dictionary.  If you are reading online, use online dictionaries for quick referencing.  For Chinese-English check out www.nciku.com

4) Start a vocabulary list:  All new words and definitions need to be written down by hand.  When you test yourself, you should also write by hand.  By using more senses in the process your brain makes more connections and you are more likely to remember the words.
Every time you run into that same word, go back and make a note.  You can leave a space on your vocabulary list to re-write the word again when you find it, or you can simply make a check mark.  This will help you when deciding which words make it into your second flashcard pile and which words don’t make the cut.

Simplify your vocabulary list every few days.  You don’t want a list of 500 words.  Keep erasing words that haven’t come up often, but keep the ones that have until you are sure that you know them by heart.  The top 10 words on your list at the end of each cleansing period should be put on flashcards to be carried with your 10-15 frequent words.

5) Start Listening: Audio is actually the most important part of the early game.  You need to train your ears to distinguish between words in the target language.  Audio will get you from hearing a jumbled mess to hearing distinct words and phrases, even if you can’t understand the meaning.  The meaning will come from your reading and vocabulary lists, but if your ears can’t pick out the sounds you are doomed.

Audio also helps train your accent.  You should try to repeat, whenever possible, what you hear.  It doesn’t matter if it’s music or podcasts or audio lessons from language CDs.  You need to be exposed to the spoken (sung) language as often as possible.   Passive listening IS FINE.  Obviously doing anything consciously will be more effective than passively, but that can be tiring so just make sure that when you’re on the bus, subway, train, in the car, or walking somewhere that you put your headphones on and train those ears!

6) Start Using the language:  About 1-2 weeks in, you should be ready to start using the language on a very basic level.  The grammar should be pretty clear - although of course you will be making many mistakes here as you get used to using it - and you could have up to a 100 word vocabulary.  Your pronunciation is going to suck, but that’s where using the language really helps.  Start meeting with your language partner and participating in some online activity / forum / group.

Fun:

Enjoy what you are doing.  Obviously there is difficulty that comes with language learning, but if you set yourself up right and have the proper motivation, learning language from start to finish will be an enjoyable experience.  Here are some helpful tips for making it more enjoyable.

1) Do it with friends: If you have a friend who also wants to learn, you can do it together.  You can test each other, joke with each other, and help each other during the process.  The more the merrier - doing things alone can be pretty, well, lonely.

2) Don’t worry about anything. Are you not making the progress you thought you would?  It doesn’t matter.  Focus on the process.  Make goals, but don’t worry if you don’t reach them as everyone learns language at a different pace, but most importantly language itself is not the goal: communication is.  As long as you are enjoying yourself, you are being successful and are most likely improving quickly.

3) Your needs are the standard for fluency, not some language test.  If you can use only 100 words in Chinese to do everything that you do already in English, then I would consider you fluent.  Most people need more (a lot more), but hey it’s possible.  For me, I need to know how to say “Zerg, Protoss, Terran, Archmage, Mountain King” in order for any language to mean much to me (I’m a video gamer).  I bet most linguists don’t know these words - are they any less fluent than I am?  When you measure your success and make goals based on your own needs, fun is easier to be had.

4) Pick subjects that you really enjoy.  As mentioned in a previous post, the materials that you choose should be enjoyable for you in order to keep you interested, but also matter to your life.  Reading German books on rocks doesn’t sound like a way to keep my attention, but hey maybe that floats your boat.  I’ll be reading about blogging, video games, or music.

The most important tip

4) Make mistakes, and lots of them.  Double your rate of failure to double your rate of success - a popular motivational phrase that’s going around these days.  It’s true.  If in the first 3 months you can fail as much as most people fail in 3 years, then your successes will match.  Making mistakes, contrary to popular belief, is a good thing (well… at least in language, not with hand grenades).  Making a mistake means that you attempted something that you haven’t mastered already, which means that you are challenging yourself, which means growth.  You can see where you were wrong and correct it.

The biggest problem that most people have in learning language is that they want to do it in the classroom, and even then they prefer to never raise their hand and attempt to answer questions because they might be wrong.  People might laugh.  The teacher might scold you.  Oh no, call in the national guard! Get over it.  Get comfortable with making mistakes and you will find your language skills jump through the roof.

Good luck and I’ll see you abroad in 3 months!

How to Rent an Apartment in Beijing, Comprehensive Guide

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I’ve lived in 7 different apartments in Beijing.  I think I’ve come across almost every possible bad situation that one can come across when trying to rent an apartment here, so I feel the need to help those of you out there who are soon to be renters.

When renting an apartment, the clearer you are with what you want, the easier it will be to find it.  Here are some helpful steps to save you time, money, and hassle:

1)  Understand the City Layout and Pick a Location:

a) Beijing is broken into rings, or roads that circle Beijing at different distances from the center.  Living next to one of these rings means getting to you or going away from you by car will be easier - aka taxi will be cheaper and faster + friends with cars will love you.  Live next to a ring. I live just off the 4th ring road, but also there is a freeway that connects directly to the 3rd next to me.

b) Without a car, Beijing is most easily traversed by subway, so you are going to want to live walking distance from a subway stop. Enough said.  Don’t buy that “you can take a bus, it’s just 2 stops away” bull.  It’s too much of a hassle.   If you have a car… ignore this.

c) If you are going to school, pick someplace within 10-15 minute walking distance from both your school AND a subway stop, but always preferably closer to the subway station than school.  If you are feeling lazy, you still have to go to class (well, unless of course you read this blog entry (LINK)), but you will choose not to go have fun.  I made this mistake before and my social life suffered.  Don’t become a hermit and put class ahead of your fun.

d) If you are not in school:  Unless you are a hermit, anything outside of the 4th ring road you will want to ELIMINATE now.  Apartments may be cheaper and larger, but the travel time is going to kill you when you want to do anything, not to mention the taxi costs when you come home past 11 from the few large gathering spots in Beijing.  Live within the 4th.

e) Live next to multiple lines: This is your first choice, as you double the places you can go to.  “Oh, but I can transfer can’t I?”  Yeah sure, add an extra 20-30 minutes to walk between stations and wait for another train.  I live in between 3 different subway lines right now, the 10 (which goes from College town in the West all the way to the Central Business District in the East), line 13 (gets me to line 2, or north out to nowhere), and line 5 (takes me to line 1 and shopping districts).  Of course, if you are in school this might not be a choice for you.  If you can’t live near multiple lines, try to live 1-2 stops from the next line.

f) Live next to food, shopping, and coffee. If you don’t have these near you, then every time you go outside you will have to travel - you might as well live where you go to get your coffee / shopping / food.  It’s nice to have friends come to you sometimes and to have shopping conveniently at your doorstep, so make sure there is plenty of this nearby.  I don’t drink coffee, but the cafe environment is good for a change from writing in my apartment, and I don’t want to have to go to the subway station or take a taxi every time I want this.  I love Chinese food and can eat it every meal everyday, but I have 7-11, pizza, coffee, burgers, Korean food, Japanese food etc all within a 10 minute walk JUST IN CASE (not to mention KTV).

beijing-apartment

2) Pick a Building:

Visit the locations that you picked out in step 1 and take a look at the different buildings in the area.  By picking the buildings that you want to live in ahead of time, you save yourself a LOT, I mean a TON of time with agencies trying to pinpoint exactly what you want.

a) Avoid buildings built before 2000, and preferably even 2004.  It is not true that apartments are cheaper in the older buildings: all you are getting is a headache from having to deal with bugs, the smell, broken down elevators, and very old furniture.  I’ve had to replace and fix all sorts of things in old apartments because the landlord wouldn’t do it, and in other cases just had to live with some things - this won’t happen as often in newer apartments.  Did I mention avoiding the bugs and the smell?

b) Check if the elevator runs 24/7 or only until midnight (of course assuming there is an elevator..).  Don’t make the mistake of renting an apartment on the 15th floor in a building that has an elevator that only runs until midnight.  Good luck walking up the stairs after a night of tequila and dancing.

c) Look for apartment complexes that are well-kept.  Some buildings, even new ones, are not kept clean, which is a good signal that the building will have BUGS.  I’ve made this mistake twice already in my years in Beijing.  This is important!   Go into each building and check the stairs for trash buildup and the main elevator area for cleanliness.  It’s best if there is a worker stationed at the front.  It’s OK if the place isn’t spotlessly clean, but some level of cleanliness will be an indicator of the shape of the rooms, besides, who wants to stand next to trash while waiting for the elevator everyday?

3)  Make a Checklist of Requirements for the Apartment

Obviously you need to know how many bedrooms you want and how many square meters (1 sq foot = .0929 sq meters), but other than that here are some things to add to your list.

a) Mention the buildings that you picked out from step 2.  This is going to save you a lot of time.  If you don’t live in Beijing and couldn’t visit the locations first, then just list out “building built after 2000, preferably after 2004, 24/7 elevator, well-kept

b) CLEAN.  Agents know which apartments have been well-kept and which ones haven’t.  Hopefully by picking out the right buildings you should be avoiding most dirty apartments, but if you don’t stress this, you will still be taken to some garbage dumps-turned-apartments.  Sometimes there are clean rooms in the buildings that you didn’t check, so it’s good to put this on your list and mention it multiple times to the agent.  Seriously, clean means something different in first world and third world countries, so stress it (unless you like dirty apartments of course).  Go as far as to describe what clean means to you - “No bugs, no smell, white walls.” 没有虫子,无臭味儿,白墙 (mei2you3 chong2zi, wu2 chou4 wei4er, bai2qiang2).

c) Do you want wooden floorboards or tile?  To me this is a no-brainer - floorboards look and feel 10x better than the ugly looking tile that many architects in China love to use.  Sometimes tile looks nice I guess, but sometimes it’s just a disaster; my last apartment had this really ugly dirty red tile (it’s a long story about how I ended up there).

d) Size of Living Room:  Chinese tend to spend most of their time in their bedrooms, so many apartments are built with very small living rooms and larger bedrooms.  Westerners are more used to larger living rooms and smaller bedrooms.  Determine what you would be more comfortable with.  I always prefer a larger living room, so I make sure to stress this to the agent.  If you don’t mind and are living alone, some apartments don’t have a living room but are still very nice.  I don’t like this, but it is an option.

e) Windows:  Don’t let them take you to a dungeon, and if they do remember to have this on your check list - if you’re looking for apartments at night you may not notice; ask for apartments that have larger/ more windows and you’ll save money on electricity and will probably wake up in a better mood ever day.  I’m writing this from my bedroom, which has a 1.8m x 2.2m window (about half of the wall) facing south - I don’t turn the lights on until late afternoon.

f) An air conditioner in every room, including the living room: Beijing gets as hot as hell during the summer.  Just make sure you don’t get screwed over.

g) Water heater quality:  Oh boy.  I made this mistake with the apartment I’m renting right now.  Hot water only lasts for 4 minutes, so now I’m left in a disadvantaged position to bargain with the landlord on getting a replacement (or fixing it).  This might not matter to you much, but it’s something to take into consideration.

   h) Furniture:  You CAN find apartments that are nicely furnished for cheap, so don’t settle - this is a place that you’ll be everyday.  Any little annoyance gets multiplied by X hours a day and Y days that you are renting for.  Furniture for me is a make-or-break requirement.
i) Does the furniture look like it came from the WWII period?
ii) Do the colors make you want to puke? (Dirty red tile with WWII-style brown furniture and green cabinets?)
iii) Is the furniture soft?
iv) Is the bed soft?
v) Is the wardrobe large enough?
vi) Is there anything missing: Sofa, TV, Computer desk, Chair, Wardrobe, Bed (or 2), Mattress (or 2), Fridge, Washer, Clothes Line for hanging washed clothing, mirror + rack for toiletries in the bathroom.

I) Internet + Cable TV:  Make sure these are either set up, or that they can be easily set up without you having to pay set-up fees.

my-apartment1


4) Go to see the Agencies:

If you read Chinese and have a lot of extra time on your hands, you can try to find apartments that are not rented through agencies.  I tried and failed - everyone I called turned out to be an agent.  Agents have gotten smarter and pretend to be the landlord online, then when you call them they surprise you with “I’m an agent!”

a) Don’t go to just one agency, but go to all of them in the area.  All of the agencies have the same list of apartments, but what’s important is that when you are dealing with different agents you will be told different things.  One Agent might quote 3000 for an apartment, while the next agent quotes 2800.  Some agents are more resourceful, understanding, generally nicer than others.  I personally have had best luck with 链家 (lian4jia1), and worst luck with 我爱我家 (wo3ai4wo3jia1 - I love my home)

b) Call and tell them your requirements up frontMake sure that they write it all down, and emphasize that you won’t see apartments that don’t match your checklist.  If you don’t do this, you are guaranteed to be taken to apartments that don’t match your needs.  Agencies have this trick of taking you to 2 apartments that you won’t like and then finally taking you to one that is close to what you want to make it seem better.  Don’t put up with this.

c) Make sure to tell them to find more than one apartment at a time to show you - don’t get trapped running across town just to see one apartment.

d) Keep in mind that landlords usually have to work, so they won’t be around until after 5pm.  Schedule meetings with all agencies in one go starting from 5 all the way to 8 or 9pm.  If you schedule ahead of time they will be able to get the landlords to stay later.

e) You don’t need to worry about agencies ripping you off too much on price - they won’t tell you that a 2000 RMB apartment goes for 3000, they’ll say 2400 or so.  Most agents are pretty honest and it comes down to convincing the landlord to lower prices, not the agent.

f)  Ask to meet the landlord.  我爱我家 (wo3ai4wo3jia1) is pretty bad with this.  It gets really ugly if you don’t have any connection with the landlord at all, as agencies do a really poor job of offering service after the purchase.  If something breaks, you need to register with the police, or have some emergency the landlord is the person you need and agencies are known to get in the way and avoid helping you.

5) Renting: Price and Bargaining

1) Don’t take the price first quoted to you - always bargain for something 100 - 400 RMB cheaper.  Even if the landlord won’t accept anything lower, this at least gives you stronger bargaining power for other things, although in most cases you will be able to get a cheaper price.  In my current apartment I wasn’t able to bargain any lower than the current price, but because I was strong in my conviction that I wasn’t getting a deal, the landlord budged on other things

Step by step:

i) “What’s the cheapest price you can give me”
ii) “What? That’s it?  Can’t you go lower?”
iii) “That’s too high.  What about (Insert something 100-400 RMB lower than what they just said)?”
iv) Go to step 2 (Yes, don’t accept any price yet)

2) Get more or better furniture:  This is the most common place for landlords to give ground, so push hard here.  You can often get them to buy you a new couch, a new TV, or even a new bed and mattress.  Previously I have gotten a brand new HUGE computer desk, new chairs, a new sofa, a new bed, and most recently new air conditioners and a newly remodeled kitchen.

Step by step:

i) “The (couch, bed, blah) is really old, there’s no way I can use it.  Can you replace this?”
ii) “There’s no (insert furniture) here, I’m going to need one”
iii) “These lights are really old, can you replace them with new ones”

3) Make an on the spot offer at a lower price than they said, while also throwing in the furniture they promised they could provide.  Say that you will take the apartment and will pay the deposit right now if he takes the price.  The landlord will be very tempted to rent it right away in fear of missing a month’s rent period looking for a renter.  Make sure to constantly wear a look of worry and dissatisfaction on your face.  Once you have found your ideal apartment, this is a good way to get a slightly cheaper price.

4) You can get the rent cheaper if you sign a year long contract, and even cheaper if you pay for a year up front.

5) AVOID any contract that requires 2 months deposit.  This is a scam to steal your money.  As many people end up leaving before their contracted time is up, the agency can legally keep your money.  Also when you decide to move, they can rack up costs such as “cleaning” or “maintenance” and take away a chunk of your deposit.  Keep your risk to a minimum and go for the standard 1 month deposit pay 3 months rent at a time.

6) For apartments over 3000 RMB, the agency fee is usually paid by the landlord.  This is actually a really stupid policy when you do the math.  Say you are renting an apartment for 2800 RMB + agency fee.  First break the agency fee into 12 months gives us 233 per month.  So you are really paying 3033 RMB for the 2800 RMB apartment, but only 3000 RMB for the other one.  Rent only below 2700 or above 3000 to avoid being an idiot and giving away free money.

Other Notes:

1) Foreigners must register with the police when they move and must bring along tax receipts from rent.  Landlords throughout Beijing seem to have unanimously agreed that foreigners will pay this taxConvince your landlord to say you are a friend, as friends don’t pay rent and thus there is nothing to be taxed, so you get to save 5% on your rent.  If you can’t, then have the agency write up a dummy contract that sets the rent price much lower than what you are actually paying in order to avoid some tax.

2) Consider apartments that are NOT furnished.  I am renting a non-furnished apartment.  The furnished equivalent goes for 700 RMB more per month.  After purchasing furniture myself (thus I own it and I picked out what I like), and dividing the price by 13 months (12 months + 1 month agency fee), I end up saving 300 RMB / month on rent in addition to whatever money I can get for my used furniture when I move out and sell it.

Sign the Contract

Missing anything?  Share your tips!

If I’m missing anything feel free to leave a comment.  Share your tips with the rest of us and make renting an apartment that much easier.

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